What's included
- Pressure-treated lumber matched to its exposure: ground-contact treatment for posts and anything near soil, above-ground treatment for joists and decking, following the AWPA use categories printed on the tag.
- Every field cut, notch and drilled hole in treated lumber brushed with end-cut preservative — the code calls for it, because cutting exposes wood the treatment never reached.
- Hot-dip galvanized or stainless fasteners and hangers rated for treated lumber, since modern preservatives corrode plain or electroplated steel.
- Joist spacing the code allows for the board: 16 inches for 5/4 boards laid square, 12 inches on a diagonal, 24 inches only for 2-inch-thick decking.
- Two fasteners at every joist, with board ends pre-drilled so they don't split as the wood dries out through a Boise summer.
- A first finish timed to the wood: cedar can usually be finished soon after install, while wet pressure-treated lumber needs to dry until it absorbs water before stain will soak in.
- Mixed railing options that cut the stain workload, such as a cedar cap rail over aluminum balusters, which keeps the warm look while leaving far fewer wood surfaces to refinish.
Materials we use
| Category | Options |
|---|---|
| Decking boards | Pressure-treated southern yellow pine or hem-fir, 5/4 or 2x6 · Western red cedar, knotty or clear grades · Thermally modified softwood (limited local availability) · Ipe and other tropical hardwoods by request — dense, heavy, every hole pre-drilled |
| Structure | Ground-contact pressure-treated posts and beams · No. 2 or better pressure-treated joists · Concrete footings below the 24-inch frost line · Hot-dip galvanized or stainless connectors and screws |
| Finishes | Semi-transparent penetrating oil stains · Water-based penetrating stains · Clear UV-inhibiting sealers (shorter life in full sun) · End-cut preservative for treated lumber |
| Fasteners | Hot-dip galvanized deck screws for pressure-treated pine · Stainless steel screws for cedar, which avoids the dark streaks that form around some coated fasteners · Hidden-fastener systems for grooved hardwood and thermally modified boards · Through-bolts and structural screws for ledgers, beams and guard posts |
How the work goes
Choose species and grade
Pressure-treated pine keeps the cost down; cedar costs more and looks warmer; clear, knot-free grades cost more again. We bring samples and explain how each one weathers in Boise sun if left bare, so the choice includes the upkeep, not just the color on day one.
Build the frame
Footings go below 24 inches, treated posts sit on standoff bases, and beams and joists are sized from the span tables. Joist tops get tape where board seams land, slowing the moisture that collects under butt joints and around fasteners.
Lay and fasten the boards
Boards are spaced for drainage and seasonal movement, fastened twice at each joist, and pre-drilled near the ends. Butt joints fall on doubled joists or blocking so both board ends have full bearing instead of sharing a narrow edge.
Treat and finish
Cut ends get preservative the day they're cut. Once the boards pass a water-drop test — water soaks in instead of beading — a penetrating, UV-blocking stain goes on. We steer away from film-forming deck paints, which crack and peel through freeze-thaw and are hard to strip.
Hand over a care schedule
You get the stain product, the color and a realistic recoat interval for your exposure; south- and west-facing boards need attention sooner. A spring wash and a once-a-year look at fasteners, board ends and stair treads catches most problems while they're still small.
Treasure Valley conditions we design for
- Permit needed above
- 12 in
- Frost depth
- 24 in
- Ground snow load
- 20 psf
- Design wind
- 90 mph
- Nights ≤ 32°F / yr
- 108
- Annual precip
- 11.51 in
Sources: City of Boise — Residential Construction brochure; City of Boise — current codes & design criteria; NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020, Boise Air Terminal (USW00024131)
Red flags to watch for in any quote
- Posts buried in soil with no ground-contact rating on the tag. The code requires treated or naturally durable lumber, and anything in contact with soil needs the heavier treatment.
- Untreated cut ends on pressure-treated lumber, especially at post tops and joist ends where water sits.
- Interior or electroplated screws in treated lumber. Modern preservatives corrode the wrong fasteners; heads rust off and boards loosen within a few seasons.
- A solid deck paint or thick film coating sold as long-term protection. In high UV and repeated freeze-thaw, films crack and peel, and stripping them costs more than staining would have.
- Staining wet pressure-treated wood on the day it's installed. The finish sits on the surface instead of soaking in, and it starts peeling within the first year or two.
- 5/4 decking on 24-inch joist spacing. The code allows 24 inches only for 2-inch-thick boards laid perpendicular to the joists.
Budgeting? Our wood decks cost guide breaks down published Treasure Valley price ranges.
Frequently asked questions
- How long does a wood deck last in Boise?
- It depends on species, how the frame was detailed, and how faithfully the boards are finished. A well-built treated frame on proper footings can outlast more than one set of decking. Boards cleaned and re-stained on schedule hold up far longer than boards left bare in full sun, where checking and cupping set in within a few summers. Stair treads and the boards nearest a sprinkler usually wear out first. Our repair-or-replace guide explains the warning signs.
- How often should you stain a cedar deck?
- On a sunny Treasure Valley deck, plan on a penetrating semi-transparent stain every two to three years, sooner on south- and west-facing boards and stair treads. A quick test: sprinkle water on the boards. If it soaks in quickly rather than beading, the finish is due. Clear sealers wear out faster in high-desert UV than pigmented stains do.
- Is cedar or pressure-treated wood better for a deck?
- Pressure-treated pine costs less and resists rot and insects through its treatment, but it can check and twist as it dries. Cedar is naturally decay-resistant, more stable and better looking, but softer and more expensive. Many decks use treated framing with cedar boards on top, which puts the better-looking wood where you see it and the treated wood where rot risk is highest. Our cedar vs. pressure-treated comparison goes deeper on both.
- How much does a wood deck cost?
- Wood usually has the lowest upfront cost per square foot, with cedar above pressure-treated pine. Height, railing, stairs and footing count often move the total more than the board choice does, and the stain you'll buy every few years belongs in the comparison too. Published 2026 ranges and their sources are in the wood deck cost guide; for a quick range at your size, try the deck cost calculator.
- Do termites damage decks in the Treasure Valley?
- Less than in many parts of the country. Boise's published design criteria rate termite risk as slight to moderate, based on local history of subterranean termite damage. Sun, dry air and freeze-thaw cause most wood deck wear here. Treated lumber, ground-contact posts on standoff bases, and keeping soil and bark mulch off the framing cover both risks at once, and they also keep sprinkler water from wicking into the post bottoms.
- Can a wood deck be converted to composite later?
- Often, if the frame is sound and its joist spacing suits the new boards. Many older wood decks were framed at 24 inches, which most composite lines won't accept without added joists. The frame gets checked first, because composite boards on a tired frame just move the problem down a level. Our deck resurfacing service explains how we decide whether a frame can carry new composite boards.
- Should a new pressure-treated deck be stained right away?
- Usually not. Most pressure-treated lumber arrives wet from the treating plant, and stain applied too soon sits on the surface and peels. In Boise's dry summer air, boards often dry enough within weeks; in cool, damp months it takes longer. Sprinkle water on the deck: when it soaks in instead of beading, the wood is ready. Lumber kiln-dried after treatment can be finished sooner but costs more.
- Is a wood deck a good choice in the Boise Foothills?
- Check the fire rules first. Boise's wildland-urban interface overlay places Foothills areas, generally north and west of Hill Road, in an IR1 zone that requires Class 1 ignition-resistant construction for new structures and additions, and the fire code official decides what applies to a lot. Standard softwood decking may not qualify, so confirm the requirement before choosing boards or ordering lumber. Our Foothills wildfire decking guide covers the options.
Sources
- NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020, Boise Air Terminal (USW00024131) — annual/seasonal
- NOAA NCEI 1991–2020 normals API — Boise days at or above 90°F and 100°F
- Idaho Residential Code (2020 Edition, 2018 IRC basis) — Chapter 5: decks R507 (UpCodes)
- City of Boise — 301 Current Codes and design criteria (2018 IRC; snow, wind, frost depth)
- City of Boise — Wildland Urban Interface Overlay (IR1 / IR2)
- American Wood Protection Association — Standards (treated-wood use categories)
- Western Red Cedar Lumber Association — Cedar decking
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