What's included
- Board removal with the frame left standing, followed by a joist-by-joist check for soft tops, split ends, rusted hangers and crowned or sagging members — the first time in years anyone has seen the whole frame from above.
- Ledger check and re-flashing while the boards are off. With the first row of decking removed, missing flashing can be added and older fasteners supplemented with structural screws, without tearing out the deck.
- Joist spacing corrected for the new boards: older 24-inch frames get added joists so composite lines that require 16 or 12 inches are installed to their spec.
- Crowned joists planed or shimmed flat, since new boards — composite especially — show every hump in the frame below.
- Butyl tape on every joist top before the new decking goes down, the least expensive protection an existing frame can get.
- New railings and stair treads to match, with every guard post re-checked for attachment before the new rail goes on.
- Fascia boards that cover the old, weathered rim joist and give the deck a clean, finished edge in a color that matches the new boards.
Materials we use
| Category | Options |
|---|---|
| New decking | Capped composite (Trex, TimberTech, Fiberon, Deckorators) · PVC / cellular (TimberTech AZEK) · Western red cedar · Pressure-treated pine |
| Frame prep | Pressure-treated sister joists and added joists · Butyl joist tape · New joist hangers and structural screws · Blocking for picture-frame borders and guard posts |
| Trim and rails | Composite or PVC fascia and riser boards · Aluminum or composite railing · Matching stair treads |
| Ledger and connection upgrades | Metal or membrane ledger flashing added under the first board · Structural ledger screws to supplement older fasteners · Lateral load connectors where the frame allows · Replacement joist hangers and post bases |
How the work goes
Frame check before the quote
We pull a few boards or look from below, probe the ledger, joist ends and post bases, and look for flashing at the house. If the frame fails, we'll tell you resurfacing is the wrong job and explain what replacement would involve.
Choose the new decking
We match the board to the frame and the sun. Composite and PVC need the joist spacing their manufacturer lists; 5/4 wood boards need 16 inches when laid square. On a deck that bakes in afternoon sun, color is part of the conversation from the start.
Strip and prep
Old decking and rails come off and are hauled away. Joists are re-fastened at their hangers, damaged ones are sistered or replaced, new joists go in where spacing requires, and every joist top is taped.
Install the new surface
New boards go down with the manufacturer's gaps and fasteners, starting from a picture-frame border or a straight first board along the house, then stair treads, risers and fascia.
Rails and final check
Guards and stair rails go on, posts are pushed and re-checked, and we walk the deck with you. You get care instructions for the board you chose and a note on anything in the old frame worth watching.
Treasure Valley conditions we design for
- Permit needed above
- 12 in
- Frost depth
- 24 in
- Ground snow load
- 20 psf
- Design wind
- 90 mph
- Nights ≤ 32°F / yr
- 108
- Annual precip
- 11.51 in
Sources: City of Boise — Residential Construction brochure; City of Boise — current codes & design criteria; NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020, Boise Air Terminal (USW00024131)
Red flags to watch for in any quote
- A resurfacing price given without anyone looking at the frame. A fixed price for "new boards" that can't change once the old ones come off is a guess.
- Composite going onto 24-inch joists with no added framing. The boards may look fine on day one and sag between joists by the second summer.
- Old joist hangers reused when they're rusted, bent or missing nails. Hangers are cheap; a joist dropping out of one is not.
- Skipping joist tape on a frame that has already been wet for years, which is exactly the frame that needs it most.
- Roll-on coatings or overlay products sold as "resurfacing" for a deck with soft boards. A coating over rot traps moisture and hides the damage until it fails all at once.
- No plan for the ledger. Resurfacing is the one moment the house connection is fully visible without demolition; walking past missing flashing means waiting for the next tear-off to fix it.
Budgeting? Our resurfacing cost guide breaks down published Treasure Valley price ranges.
Frequently asked questions
- What is deck resurfacing?
- Removing the old decking, and usually the railings and stair treads, then installing new boards on the existing frame. It only works when the joists, beams, posts, ledger and footings are sound and properly attached. Some products marketed as resurfacing are thick coatings rolled over old boards; those don't fix soft, splitting or rotting wood. Done right, resurfacing gives you a new-looking deck on a frame that has already proven it can stay put through Treasure Valley winters.
- Will new decking fix a bouncy deck?
- No. Bounce comes from the frame: joists spanning too far, undersized beams, missing blocking or loose hangers. New boards can even make it more noticeable, since composite is less stiff than 2x wood. While the boards are off, we add mid-span blocking, sister or add joists, or add a beam and footings to shorten spans. If the fix means rebuilding most of the frame, replacement is the honest answer.
- How much does deck resurfacing cost compared with replacement?
- Resurfacing skips frame demolition, new footings and most framing, which is why it is usually the less expensive path. How much less depends on whether joists must be added for composite, how much railing and stair work is included, and what the frame check finds. Published ranges for full replacement are in the deck replacement cost guide, and the deck cost calculator sizes a new deck for comparison.
- Can I put composite decking on my old wood frame?
- Often, with some work. Composite lines specify a maximum joist spacing that is commonly tighter than older wood frames built at 24 inches. We add joists to bring spacing within the manufacturer's limit, flatten crowned joists and tape the joist tops. Picture-frame borders and stair treads need their own blocking, which an old wood frame almost never has. If the frame needs more than that, a full deck replacement may be the better value.
- How do I know if my deck frame is good enough to resurface?
- Push an awl or screwdriver into joist tops, joist ends at the ledger and post bases; soft wood means rot. Look for rusty hangers, missing flashing at the ledger, posts sitting on dirt, and footings that have moved. Problems in more than one or two places point toward replacement; a single soft joist usually doesn't. The deck repair-or-replace guide lists the full set of checks.
- Does deck resurfacing require a permit?
- It depends on the scope and the city. Changing the frame, the deck's height or its footprint is more likely to need review than swapping boards on an unchanged frame, and HOA committees may want to approve a new color or material. We confirm with the building department before starting; in Boise, the building division answers permit questions at 208-608-7070, and the Boise deck permit guide covers the rules.
- How long does deck resurfacing take?
- Usually less time than a full rebuild, because there's no footing work and no waiting on concrete. Most of the variation comes from frame prep: a deck that needs joists added or sistered takes longer than one that only needs tape and new boards. Railing and stairs add time on raised decks. The schedule is written into the scope, so you know the plan before the old boards come off.
- When is the best season to resurface a deck in Boise?
- Any dry stretch works, since there's no digging. Spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Summer afternoons over 90°F — Boise averages about 55 a year — make composite hot to handle, and winter installs are possible with gaps set for the cold. Booking for spring means choosing boards and colors in late winter so materials are on hand. More on timing in the best time to build a deck in Boise.
Sources
- Idaho Residential Code (2020 Edition, 2018 IRC basis) — Chapter 5: decks R507 (UpCodes)
- American Wood Council — DCA 6 Prescriptive Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide
- Trex — Decking product lines
- TimberTech — Decking (composite and AZEK PVC)
- City of Boise — Residential construction permit guide (deck, patio cover, pergola rules)
- NOAA NCEI 1991–2020 normals API — Boise days at or above 90°F and 100°F
Last reviewed .